The Chickery

130 Spadina Ave., #102B (near Queen St. West, entrance off Camden)
647-347-2222
thechickery.com

Rating: 2 out of 5
Reservations: No
Licensed: Yes
Business lunch: No
Lunch with co-workers: Yes
Social lunch: Yes
Quick solo lunch: Yes

Happy, healthy chickens cost more, but using free-range birds free of antibiotics doesn’t guarantee tastier meat.

At $9, two chicken fingers with one side is a pricey snack. The unbelievably moist meat is timid, as is the coating. Sauces help — purple plum is inspired, while chunky, watery house gravy imbues a smoky essence.

The quarter roast chicken with one side ($12) has a similar problem — moist meat, but tame flavour and skin that appears browned but isn’t crisp. A small scoop of delectable potato salad or unwieldy napa cabbage coleslaw, slick with oil, is served on the side. Or actually, on the top.

Eating in, your meal is presented on a black metal Star Trek Enterprise-like tray. Who can eat like this? I take everything down, as do neighbouring tables.

Casual, fun and loud, the space is great. As is the concept. A few tweaks and the food will be too.