House-made Gnocchi ($15) from Trichilo's Ristorante.

What a welcome change to walk into Trichilo’s, Richmond Row’s newest eatery that specializes in food from Calabria (the southern toe of Italy).

Located in the short-lived Picante and Smitty’s, my visit predicts that this smartly designed restaurant will fare much better.

I share an order of Beef Carpaccio ($9) and devour its rich deliciousness in no time.

The thinly-sliced beef with a salad cream, mustard and fresh herbs, topped with watercress and a deep-fried egg is very savoury.

My main dish of house-made Gnocchi ($15), light and fluffy with just a hint of pan-fried crispness, arrives in a heavier cream sauce and three kinds of mushrooms. Additional flavour comes from a dash of olive oil and lemon.

The chef is still defining the menu, so for an extra $2 my Gnocchi includes tender brisket.
Risotto, pastas and pizzas, along with gluten-free options, round out the menu, but it veers close to growing too large and unfocused – burgers!?

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