Early Bird is not for the faint-hearted. It is a glorious gastronomical assault of calories, ideally suited for a rock-and-roll state-of-mind.

More retro diner than café, the decor screams punk with brightly coloured walls, shiny vinyl banquets, and vintage rock art. Along with tattooed servers, the rebellious nature continues on a menu that defies contemporary trends toward moderation.

Over-the-top gourmet ingredients turn the volume up to 11 on the breakfast, sandwich and burger selections.

Having had the indulgent Braised Duck sliders ($12) previously, I crave Perogies ($12). More than 10 arrive, loaded with bacon, onion and token greens. They are lovingly home-made and boiled — not fried — like grandma used to make. The

Poutine ($11) is a massive stage packed with crispy fries, incredible gravy and smoky, shredded cured beef.

Alternative to its core, Early Bird is ideal for late-nights and hangover breakfasts. It offers no apology for delivering punches of flavour straight to your mouth.

Visiting the restaurant

Early Bird Café

Address. 355 Talbot St.

Phone. 519-439-6483

Rating. 4/5

Price range. $6 – $12

Reservations. No

Business lunch. No

Social lunch. Yes

Quick solo lunch. Yes