Zambelli’s Prime Rib Steak & Pasta

• 17925 Stony Plain Rd.
• 780-485-2444
• Price range: Mid
• Rating:?****   

Zambelli’s is built for the business lunch. A big-screen TV dominates the small lounge and tables spread across the cavernous room.

Any power-suited or logo-wearing lunchtime goers – whether they seek beer, wine, cocktails and/or solid, satisfying cuisine – are accommodated.

The menu is standard family-restaurant fare, but goes on for pages. Unpretentious appetizers, salads, burgers, Greek dishes, steaks and pasta boast prices a little higher than expected.

My quickly-delivered rack of ribs forced me to revise my expectations. The tender, delightfully over-sauced meat stretched the length of my forearm. I polished it off and ignored both sides (veggies and garlic toast).

Ignoring the refrigerated display of mouth-watering cakes for dessert, I sipped my serviceable cappuccino and visualized the clamour if the restaurant were full. The arrayed liquor bottles behind the bar and ready buffet tables assured me that Zambelli’s is built to handle it.