Now, I’m sure that Iron Chef Rob Feenie is skilled, but I’m not going to go to a restaurant because they hired the guy at head office.

Nonetheless, I had heard enough foodgasms to convince me to try out the Cactus Club Café.

The casually elegant restaurant and rich furnishings immediately impressed me. I was shown to a booth and picked a 9 oz. glass of luscious Catena malbec ($15) to start.

The menu was inspiring – Feenie’s signature dishes looked especially intriguing – but the short ribs ($24) took my fancy.

 The result was a tender mass of braised beef, soy bean and hoisin spiced, sweetened with pineapple and ginger.

Occasionally, I’d crunch a fresh snap pea or sample creamy mashed potatoes. It was blissful.

The bliss compounded with my apple galette ($7.75). Tart Granny Smith wedges and warm, crisp puff pastry dripped with sweet caramel. I was tempted to order two for the road.

The Cactus Club deserves every foodgasm it causes.