If you’ve had banh mi once, you’ll find yourself craving the deceptively simple Vietnamese sub often. Trung Nguyen in Chinatown has a loyal following because of its unusual sub fillings and familiar service, the chipper owners tend to remember your order after a few visits.

The assorted ($4.50) is my benchmark for the French-inspired banh mi. The baguette must be flaky crisp yet yieldingly soft. Julienned pickled carrots and daikon must be crunchy to contrast with mayo, pâté, pork loaf and Vietnamese ham. Trung Nguyen passes the test on all counts.

Aside from ordinary satay beef/chicken choices, Trung Nguyen has a clubhouse or buffalo chicken option — "tastes like buffalo wings!" promises the owner.

The curry chicken sub ($6) was a nice change, with big pieces of chicken breast in a slightly sweet curry sauce. It worked well against the cool cucumber and jalapeno pieces.

When I couldn’t decide among Trung Nguyen’s bubble teas ($4), the owner mixed up a mango lychee for me.