Rasoi, which means kitchen in Hindi, does a masterful job of modernizing Indian favourites in a stylishly muted dining room.

Samosas ($7) were filled with garam masala beef and lightly deep-fried.

Only the elegant presentation prevented me from licking the coriander and tamarind chutneys from the plate.

Stuffed with pieces of slow-braised masala lamb shank, my flatbread sandwich ($14) was a true thing of beauty. Rolled in soft naan bread, bits of Indian ratatouille gave bursts of flavour along with mint chutney and yogurt.

The side salad featured a refreshing vinaigrette inspired by chaat, a popular roadside snack.
Rasoi’s version of butter chicken ($19) had a cream curry highlighting what tasted like roasted tomatoes, and then infused with fenugreek and ginger.

The portion was satisfying with both basmati rice and naan.

We ended our relaxing lunch with kheer ($7), a chilled saffron rice pudding, fragrant with crushed rose petals and Alberta fireweed honey.