Altadore Dining Lounge
4824 16th St. NW
Calgary, (403) 457-4457
www.thealtadore.com

Rating: *** 1/2
Dinner for two with drinks: $50
Signature Dish: Cioppino

The chef at the Altadore Dining Lounge must firmly believe in the motto, “Go big or go home,” in offering bold takes on conventional neighbourhood pub/bistro food.

Altadore’s puttanesca pizza ($12) is a golden revelation of halved baby tomatoes, kalamata olives, capers, parmesan and a chunky marinara sauce. Breaded spiced halibut pieces are a delightful and fearless final topping.

Coconut shrimp ($9.50) are skilfully done so you can actually taste the sweet shrimp and coconut in the batter.

Altadore’s cioppino ($26.50) is the priciest menu item but one of the city’s best deals. A daring offering in land-locked Calgary — much less a strip-mall bistro — the tomato-saffron broth is jammed with tender squid, fresh fish, meaty mussels and scallops, and a perfectly cooked lobster tail. Garlic bread is vital for sopping up every last drop.

The meatloaf ($18) is cleverly rolled with layers of prosciutto and mozzarella, topped with a bright marinara or peppercorn gravy. A piping hot side of mac and cheese is a rich meal unto itself.

Pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas average $12.

Altadore’s culinary hits are in spite of the atmosphere: a strange hybrid of upscale bistro furnishings, sports on overhead TVs, and loud cliquey chatting by staff/friends at the bar.

Dining out

BRUNCH AT THE INN Open until 1 a.m. most days and 2 a.m. on weekends, Sun Chiu Kee (1423 Centre St. N.W.) has a long list of Chinese dishes for less than $10. Choose two specials from the post-9 p.m. menu and get a free bowl of rice congee.

In brief

TASTE OF COCHRANE Sample food and drink during a walking tour of restaurants in scenic Cochrane on Saturday. Tickets $25. www.cochranechamber.ca.