Vero Bistro Moderne
209 — 10th St. N.W.
Calgary, (403) 283-8988
www.Verobistro.ca
Rating: ***
Dinner for two with drinks: $80
Signature Dish: Seafood platter for two
Vero Bistro Moderne is a true neighbourhood bistro, with loyal regulars packed into the elbow-to-elbow, red and black dining room.
Chef Jenny Chan’s slogan for Vero is “Welcome to My Heart,” which explains the earnest, well-executed dishes.
Hand-rolled sweet potato gnocchi ($14) with a special wild boar bacon, paired with sharp gorgonzola, crunchy walnuts and tangy 10-year balsamic reduction make for a lovely composition.
A special Caesar salad has a delicious roasted garlic dressing with an “anchovy confit” served in a colourful radicchio cup. But a side of lentils felt out of place on the plate.
Olive and parmesan-crusted lamb chops ($33) were top-notch, about five meaty pieces cooked perfectly medium rare, and served over roasted red pepper coulis, potato puree and vegetables.
The lobster risotto had the right flavours, but the rice’s mushy texture was slightly off.
Dinner finishes off well with a tiramisu ($9) soaked in espresso and dark rum.
Busy nights reveal Vero’s weakness. Diners with reservations spill out of the tiny entrance onto the sidewalk as the front-of-house gets backed up between seatings. Acknowledgement of this ranges from non-existent to awkward.
To avoid the chaos, take advantage of mid-week specials with the purchase of a bottle of wine, like a dozen free oysters on Wednesdays or an artisanal cheese plate on Thursdays.
Dining out
GRILLED CHEESE
Janice Beaton Fine Cheese (1017 — 16th Ave. SW) has opened a grilled cheese bar inside its shop, featuring warm and melty sandwiches on fresh baked ciabatta buns from Manuel Latruwe Belgian Patisserie.
CURRY NIGHT
Hot and spicy curry is the spotlight of a buffet at PaSu Farm, north of Calgary, Saturday at 7 p.m. for $45 per person. Call 1-800-679-7999 for reservations.
In brief
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Meet local farmers, chefs and community food groups on Sunday, 6 to 9 p.m. followed by a screening of documentary, Food Fight, at the Uptown (612 — 8th Ave. SW). Tickets $15.
