Soft-shell crab club sandwich ($15) from Big Fish

Big Fish
1112 Edmonton Tr. N.E., Calgary
(403) 277-3403
big-fish.ca

Signature Dish:
Soft-shell crab club sandwich
Rating: ***½
Brunch & drinks for 2: $35

A lengthy brunch is always a great indulgence; an even better treat is a weekend breakfast/lunch with a twist on the ole bacon and eggs and no lineup outside.

Big Fish is a hidden treasure along the Breakfast Belt at the top of Edmonton Trail anchored by Diner Delux, and populated by AKA Bistro and the new Over Easy Breakfast.

With the time leaning more toward lunch, we start with the seafood chowder ($8), a divine, creamy bowl with smoked halibut cheek and a few drizzles of yuzu oil.

The Eggs Benedict ($14) are solid, with a choice of flatiron steak, vegetables or Dungeness crab, rather than the usual suspects. The capable Hollandaise has a hint of basil; the potatoes are tossed with a hint of fresh herbs.

Omelettes are well thought-out and fluffy, with one featuring baby shrimp, locally cold-smoked trout and chives with gouda ($13).

My all-time favourite though is the enormous soft-shell crab club ($15). It is a thing of beauty: a whole battered soft-shell crab sandwiched with wild boar bacon, organic tomatoes and lettuce.

Those looking for something ahem, lighter, can still order eggs with double-smoked bacon or chicken sausage ($10).

Service is wonderful and the organic Kicking Horse coffee always topped up.

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