Sure, I can spot the Big Dipper. And while I love a full moon, nothing beats the promise of wishing on a shooting star. But those iconic nighttime wonders aside, my knowledge of a darkened sky is basic at best.

Determined to heighten my celestial sense, I knew few earthly viewing venues could top Mauna Kea on Hawaii’s Big Island. So on a romp to the remarkably diverse island, I decided to shoot for Hawaii Forest & Trail’s (HF&T) stargazing tour to this renowned astronomical observing site.

On a typical warm Big Island afternoon, our group of eager star-trekkers boarded a 12-passenger van at HF&T’s Kona Coast headquarters. Interpretive naturalist Greg Brown had packed parkas and provisions for the eight-hour excursion. Not accustomed to lengthy transit, I had my concerns. They faded away, however, as our adventure began to unfold.

Mauna Kea is overwhelming. To observe the “white mountain” from sea level, one can only begin to grasp its size. Weaving toward the summit, I was consumed by this massive mound.
Well versed in Hawaiiana, Brown shared both fact and folklore on the dramatic evolution of our surroundings. As we passed a pueo (native Hawaiian owl) perched in a dead mamane tree, he explained how ranching and grazing herds had transformed the area from forest into grassland.

Midway to the summit, we stopped at historic Humuula Station, an abandoned sheep outpost geared with a dining tent, tables and extremely clean porta potties.

It was cool and foggy at the Parker Ranch post — quite a contrast to coastal conditions earlier in the day. Aside from sustenance, the dinner stop also helped acclimatize us for our final ascent. With a hearty meal under our belts, we continued our star quest.

Near the 9,000-foot level, the van emerged from a thick fog into a brilliant blue sky. It was as if the heavens had opened up. We progressed toward the 13,500-foot elevation past volcanic cinder cones and patches of snow.

“Mauna Kea’s summit rises above 40 per cent of the Earth’s atmosphere,” Brown explained. “Plus it’s far from city lights. Up here, you’ll have optimal viewing of galaxies that stretch to the very edge of our observable universe.”

As I exited the van with a wobbly step or two, I noticed the elevation definitely had an impact.

While that quickly passed, the temperature was another issue. Brown warned us that it had plummeted below freezing. So I zipped my parka and tightened the hood.

Standing at the summit was nothing short of amazing. We were literally on top of the world, at the peak of the tallest mountain on Earth. And as daylight slowly slipped away, the journey grew more spectacular.

Brown recited the roster of observatories. “Those are the Keck twins and that’s the Subaru Telescope.” Eleven countries currently host 13 telescopes at the summit, some 31,000 feet above the ocean’s floor in the world’s most isolated area.

After a stunning sunset, we returned to the Onizuka Center For International Astronomy at the 9,200-foot level. Here, Brown set up a pair of eight inch Celestron Cassegrain telescopes for our star party.

He also used lasers to point out clusters and constellations. Warm in our parkas and with hot chocolate and macadamia nut cookies in hand, we “oohed” and “aahed” at the brilliance of Hawaii’s night sky. Far beyond simply viewing the heavens, we were witnessing Earth’s place in the cosmos.

After an hour or so, our group agreed that we were seeing things more clearly — connecting the dots, so to speak. We were headed for home as the Southern Cross began to rise — just as Brown had promised. I counted my lucky stars I’d taken this trek.

The eight-hour/12-person maximum Mauna Kea Summit & Stars Adventure is offered daily for $185 US plus tax, including picnic-style dinner, snack, hot beverages, hooded parka and gloves. Reservations are highly recommended at least one week in advance, as this tour consistently sells out.

Other Eco-Excursions

Aside from its Mauna Kea summit stargazing trek, HF&T takes adventure lovers on journeys that include hiking to waterfalls, experiencing volcanoes, walking in rainforests and spotting native birds in remote habitats.

New to the company are PinzTrek off-road adventures operated in Pinzgauer six-wheeled vehicles holding up to 12 guests. Whether fording mountain streams in Kohala, exploring the misty reaches of Hualalai, or rambling through tropical fruit orchards, explorers can expect to be entertained and educated.

Priced at $105 plus tax per person, each PinzTrek Adventure incorporates a walking element. So in addition to experiencing the thrill of off-road adventure, people also see the beauty and diversity of Hawaii at a slower, more relaxed pace.

Both the Kohala Wai and Holoholo Hualalai excursions run three to four hours each and are priced at $105 plus tax for those 12 and older, while a Kohala Waterfalls Adventure is $125.

Other trips and prices include a Kilauea Volcano Adventure for $169, a Rainforest & Dry Forest Birding Adventure for $179 and a Hakalau Forest & wildlife Rescue Adventure for $169. For those into more delectable discoveries, the Merriman’s Culinary & Farm Adventure is a behind-the-scenes tasteful trip covering Hawaii Regional Cuisine.

Included in the itinerary is a trip to Kahua Ranch, a sprawling spread devoted to cattle and sheep ranching, as well as innovative agricultural practices. Also scheduled is a stop at Honopua Farm, where organic vegetables, lavender and cut flowers are grown. This outing returns to award-winning Merriman’s Restaurant in Waimea for a special four-course dinner prepared by chefs using fresh, local ingredients. The $169 rate covers all transportation, tours and meals.

For reservations and further details, contact Hawaii Forest & Trail at 800-464-1993 or visit www.hawaii-forest.com.

Where to stay

The bulk of The Big Island’s accommodations are sprinkled along the sunny Kona Coast, with a roster of five-star Kohala Coast resorts crowning the list. Known for world-class accommodations, championship golf, up­scale spas and beautiful Pacific waters, these offerings run north from the Kona International Airport toward the rolling hills of Waimea. Here’s a quick rundown on the island’s “Gold Coast” offerings within each master-planned resort destination:

• Kaupulehu — Kona Village Resort, www.konavillage.com.

• Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, www.fourseasons.com/hualalai.

• Waikoloa Beach Resort  — Hilton Waikoloa Village, www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com.

• Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, www.marriotthawaii.com.

• Maui Lani Resort — Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, www.maunalani.com.

• The Fairmont Orchid Hawaii, www.fairmont.com.

• Mauna Kea Resort — Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, www.princeresortshawaii.com.

• Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, www.maunakeabeachhotel.com.