First, let’s get the terminology straight: Bond would never use the word tuxedo. That’s an Americanism. He would say “dinner jacket.” On an invitation — to an embassy, say, or a casino — it would say “black tie.”
And what he means by this is very strict. Even in an age when celebrities interpret black tie to mean any variation on a black suit (long ties, white ties, black shirts, whatever), James Bond would stick to the letter of convention for formal wear. That means classic black, with a small bow tie. A fitted single-breasted jacket with one or two buttons (no more!). Peak lapels or shawl lapels (the rounded ones), with satin or ribbed silk facing. One black ribbon down the outseam of each trouser leg. The trousers have no cuffs at the hem, nor do they have belt loops — they are held up by suspenders, or by an adjusting self-belt.
Shirt: white piqué — that’s the waffle texture, also known as marcella — with a regular turned-down collar. Pleated shirt fronts are falling out of fashion. Your shirt will have studs, not buttons, and the studs will match your cufflinks. (Oh yes, you will have cufflinks). Your shoes — now listen closely, because this is crucial — your shoes must be plain shiny black lace-up Oxfords. James Bond himself probably owns a pair of extra-shiny patent leather shoes just for black tie, but you don’t have to.
Should you own a dinner jacket? Of course you should. Renting is absurdly expensive, and the “formalwear” chains, which focus on weddings rather than on Bond-style dinner parties, tend to push you towards the garish. Start shopping for your tuxedo in January, when the big party season is over and formal wear goes on sale.
If you’re not in a high income-bracket, you can skip the high-end retailers like Harry Rosen and Holt Renfrew. Since fashion doesn’t influence this outfit much, a plain black dinner jacket from The Bay, or from your local conservative men’s store, is perfectly acceptable — and can be found on sale for under $1,000. Designer names are not important in this field. An even cheaper option is to order one online from the Vancouver-based company Indochino (indochino. com). It gives you instructions on how to measure yourself, you e-mail your measurements in and they have the suit made in Shanghai. And the basic dinner jacket, which is 100 per cent wool, is $325.
The Bond cheat sheet
Major black-tie pitfalls — tips for the aspiring spy
- Don’t wear black tie with penny-loafers or patterned brogues. Plain black lace-ups only.
- Don’t wear a wing collar. Unless you are at some nostalgic ’80s party.
- Don’t wear a pre-tied bow tie. You can find various diagrams and even animations of how to tie a bow tie on the web — or you can go to a conservative men’s store and get the salesman to show you. It’s easy, seriously, and it makes all the difference between a gentleman and a guy who looks uncomfortably dressed-up. A real bow tie always looks softer and more relaxed.
- Don’t be seduced by the idea of matching coloured bow ties and cummerbunds. Bond sticks to plain black.
- Don’t worry about a cummerbund or waistcoat — despite what eager salesmen want to sell you. Your jacket is going to be kept closed while you’re standing anyway, so no one will see either.
- Don’t be afraid of vintage clothing stores. You can get some classic Bond looks there for a couple of hundred bucks.
- And remember: in a pinch you can wear a regular plain black business suit with a formal shirt and black bow tie. Few people will notice the lack of satin.
