The great Mexican journalist German Dehesa wrote of Oaxaca: “Getting to Oaxaca is not a question of trains or planes: it requires an adventurous spirit and open heart… I suspect that Oaxaca’s location is neither geographical nor historical – it is mythical.”

Why does Oaxaca inspire such prose? What attracts so many adventurous spirits and open hearts to Oaxaca? Read on.

First time?

First of all, thanks for coming. The tourism industry here was booming in the early 2000s, as foreigners heard more about our cooking and culture.

Then, a teacher protest in 2006 sparked violence-and scary headlines. Visitors slowed. Thankfully, our reputation as a safe, warm state has returned.

We’re biased, but recommend you start at the ICC (Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura), the school that adjoins our newspaper. The teachers there offer not just language classes, but full immersion: you learn to cook, salsa and be a Oaxacan.

And it’s close to the sights, including the towering Iglesia de Santo Domingo. For more info, see iccoax.com.

Been there before?

Maybe so, but you probably haven’t seen Copalita, the latest archaeological site to open in Oaxaca.

Discovered in 1997, the Mixtec and Zapotec city, nearly two thousand years old, just got a $7.8 million renovation.

Facing the Pacific Ocean, it has been referred to as the Tulum of the Pacific Coast, one of the few archaeological sites that’s also a seaside tourism destination (it overlooks a lagoon flowing into the ocean).

Part of its facilities include a modern museum with pieces found onsite, including jewellery and tools made from obsidian and jade traded from northern parts of the country. And outside the shop: 11 endemic bird species and 86 acres to explore.

Eat and drink

The moles here are famous: Often misunderstood by foreigners as a spicy Mexican chocolate sauce, such a description does a great injustice to the rich, multifaceted deliciousness of the dish.

A mole combines more than 35 ingredients in a process that can take five days. For authenticity, try the one at Los Pacos (lospacos.com.mx).

Additionally, Friday is our favourite day in Oaxaca for one simple reason: tacos. Usually reserved for a late night snack, they are the main event at the Llano Park market every week.

Tacos can be divided into two major groups: ones that used to bleat (kid and lamb) and all the rest (pork and beef).

The former can be sampled at Caprino Chivo y Borrego. Owner Francisco Fuentes says meats are prepared first in the oven, then braised in a broth and pulled.