Earl’s Crossroads
4250 Calgary Trail
780-439-5888
earls.ca
Rating: ****1/2
Price range: Mid to High
Licensed: Yes

Earl’s opened in Edmonton three decades ago as a beer-and-burger joint. Now spread out to 50 locations across Canada and the U.S., Earl’s “West Coast Casual” cuisine helped define an entire genre of restaurant and managed to keep making a killer burger.

The late-60s lounge décor of Earl’s Crossroads was warm and welcoming as we slid into our comfy booth. Instead of getting lost in the huge array of options, I decided on the Los Cabos Chicken Tacos ($13) with a side salad ($1) and a glass of Misterio Malbec ($9.25).

Candied pecans and feta garnished what was simply the best side salad I have ever sampled. The bold red wine gilded each bite and despite the cilantro overload, my tasty chicken tacos delivered a luscious and lingering one-two of avocado-corn salsa and honey-lime dressing.

The little burger joint has grown elegant and sophisticated, but keeps an emphasis on fresh food and its family-friendly core.