Roasted mushroom orechiette ($18.71) from Murrieta's.

Murrieta’s West Coast Bar & Grill
808 First St. S.W., 2nd floor
Calgary, (403) 269-7707
www.Murrietas.ca

Rating: ***

Dinner for two with drinks: $85
Signature Dish: Duo of duck

A Stephen Avenue anchor, the second-floor Murrieta’s is a beautiful space, with ample room for business groups and romantic dates alike.

While it’s obvious the kitchen is capable, our visit was best described as uneven. Borderline fishy Westcoast clam chowder ($6.93) was jammed with other seafood as much as clams, but another starter of tempura prawns ($14.21) was fabulous.

Roasted mushroom orechiette ($18.71) drowned in a too-oily basil pesto, leaving the little ears of pasta, innocent mushrooms, toasted walnuts and feta in a slick.

Meaty entrees fared much better. The Alberta game duo ($45.71), a brawny grilled venison chop with braised wild boar belly, would satisfy any dedicated carnivore.

The duo of duck ($28.81) impressed as a pink seared duck breast, complemented with lumache stuffed with braised duck leg, so you get the best of the fowl’s world.

Dessert was a sweet surprise (pun intended) with a perfectly balanced carrot cake, thinly layered with caramel.

We started the meal off with a friendly server who disappeared by the middle of our meal without a word, leaving mostly the runners to take care of us until it was time for the bill. Like I said, it was an uneven night.

In brief

ITALIAN MERGER Capo chef/owner Giuseppe Di Gennero is teaming up with the Sorrentino’s chain to relaunch its Calgary location. The revamped concept is for family-style, sharing platters. Sorrentino’s by Di Gennaro is slated for a grand opening May 18.

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