In 2005, chef/owner John Lee opened Sushi Marché on Queen East – just a slip of a place with a few seats. His new location on Laird offers a small bench. Outside. Take out or delivery is the only way to go here.

But it is worth it.

First, you get to watch Lee make everything. Crafting our Maki Lunch A ($15) and Maki Lunch C ($12), he hand blends tempura flakes and spicy mayo and slices lemon tissue thin for the Kamikaze Roll. Crisp romaine added to the California Roll should be an industry standard.

Then there is the quality of ingredients – velvet avocado, satiny seafood, delicate rice, and the fine dining addition of the edible flower and gooseberry.

If this was a full-on restaurant, Sushi Marché II would rock this city. For now, we’ll have to be content with it being the best take-out and delivered sushi you can get.